The comedian doesn't sit in a comedy-content silo of phony male bafflement at the world. The audience is subtly invited to judge him, and the laughs come from an earned affability that isn't phony at all.

If that smacks suspiciously of brand solidification after the near career-derailment Jeannie's illness temporarily brought about, Quality Time is at least quality old-school Gaffigan.

Quality Time isn't his best work, but it's still incredible.

The new material might be a little racier than the old hot pocket bits, but it's all within the context of married fatherhood. And that is what really makes this special, like his previous ones, special.